TRAVEL LIKE A VIKING ON VIKING'S LONG SHIP ALRUNA

There's nothing as spectacular as spending a holiday in Europe during the winter. Many people choose the warmer months to travel abroad, but we've discovered that some of the most incredible landscapes, breathtaking adventures and historical treasures are more extraordinary when shrouded in winter's charm.

After walking through Amsterdam, navigating lanes bursting with pedestrians, trams, cars and over 1.3 million bikes, boarding our longship via a red carpet landing appeared to be quite a juxtaposition from the three days we had just experienced. Little did we know at that moment that this red carpet would come to symbolize our entire journey on our castle-dotted Rhine Getaway  aboard the Viking's Longship Alruna. 

This intimate setting would allow us to make friends, share adventures, swap stories and let the beauty of the Rhine River encapsulate everything we did.  By the time we checked in on Saturday evening, our bags were in our room and there was little to do other than meet our fellow passengers in the lounge for the crew's welcome and a champagne toast to the week ahead.

The Rhine River is 765 miles long and flows northwest from the Alps in Switzerland to the North Sea, through France, Germany and the Netherlands. Major cities along our route will be Amsterdam, Basel, Strasbourg, Koblenz, and Cologne.

If you were ever in doubt of the captain's skills, watching him navigate through the slim locks with only inches between the ship and the concrete wall, you became a believer instantly. You almost held your breath until the ship cleared the lock and resumed the cruise down the river. From Amsterdam to Basel, we traveled through 10 locks, and each time, people would stop what they were doing and watch. It became one of those defining moments of river cruising.

Windmills of Kinderdijk

Our Sunday morning excursion would be our first port of call, Kinderdijk, The Netherlands, famous for its windmills. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, the windmills are used to pump water from polders using internal or external scoops into reservoirs on two levels. At one time, there were more than 150 windmills in the Alblasserwaard and Vijfheerrenlanden areas; today, only 28 remain, 19 of which are in the Kinderdijk area.

The eight mills that survive on De Nederwaard were all built in 1738. Bonnet mills (only the top section revolves with the wind) built from brick and large sails come from within one foot of the ground. Their nickname, ground sailors.

Cologne, Germany

Our next port of call is Cologne, Germany, where we would be in awe of its architectural icon and its proud German beer. With an expert guide, we were introduced to the Cologne Cathedral. Its construction began in 1238, and it was not completed until 1880. Over the next seven centuries, builders were inspired and crafted plans according to their faith and inspiration. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it stands as one of the most beautiful monuments to European Christianity.

The basilica is a five-aisled structure. The nave is 43 meters high. The original liturgical appointments of the choir are still extant including the high altar with a slab of black limestone believed to be the largest in any Christian church. Also visible, the carved oak choir stalls, the painted choir screens, fourteen statues on the pillars of the choir and a cycle of stained-glass windows.

We were educated on German beer in Cologne.

During our optional excursion, Cologne's Beer Culture and Dinner (a must), our guide roamed from beer hall to beer hall allowing us to sample the Brahaus culture.

Here's the scoop: German beer connoisseurs are loyal to a style rather than a brand. The most famous, Kolsch beer, is served very cold. They carry the tall glasses of Kolsch to your table on a crown (see below), a circular tray. The glasses are small (7 oz) but served this way to keep two very important items intact. The temperature (Kolsch beer MUST be cold!) and the head.  The head is a very import part of the Kolsch experience and should last to the bottom of your glass. And don't worry, when yours is empty, the servers will quickly replace the empty one. No more? Simply put your coaster on top and that will send the message.

And here's an interesting fact. The German beer purity law (Reinheitsgebot) has been around since 1516 when Duke Wilhelm IV of Bavaia decreed that beer will only have four ingredients: hops, barley, water and yeast (added a bit later). Most houses still hold fast and remain loyal to the Reinheitsgebot, but with the birth of craft breweries, some are pushing the boundaries.

Whether you taste the Kolsch (clear with prominent hops) or Bock (heavy and malty brew) or Pils (blond and clear), sipping your choice in a brewhouse in Germany trumps sipping in a bar in America every time.

Braubach and Rüdesheim: The Middle Rhine

We sail through the night and the morning brings us to Braubach. The first to welcome us, the 700-year-old hilltop fortress of Marksburg Castle. Its purpose becomes its beauty with little modernization; it's construction, original.

It's a steep walk to the entrance, taking about 30 minutes.

Since the 12th century, noblemen and lords and houses have called this complicated maze of rock stairways, internal passageways, and historical artifacts home. It was originally built to protect the town of Braubach. Following Napolean's defeat of the Roman Empire in 1806, it became a prison and home for disabled soldiers. In 1866, Prussia took control of the castle; in 1900, the German Castle Association purchased the massive structure for 1,000 gold marks. With that, restoration began.

Today, it's an extensive museum telling history's story of multiple centuries. Family crests line walls remembering the inhabitants. Many walkways are treacherous and take time to navigate; there are no elevators and it is not accessible by wheelchair. Guided tours  (7 euros adults) are available and are encouraged to understand the castle's history.

Following the excursion to the castle, we return to the ship and continue down the Rhine River. As with most days onboard, there are demonstrations and gatherings, an opportunity for cultural enrichment.

On this day, we are introduced to Rüdesheim Coffee and exactly how to construct. Who knew combining coffee, brandy, sugar, dark chocolate and whipped cream would be the cure to what ails you on a cold December day.

The Rhine - "Old Father Rhine" as Germans call their river - flows  through multiple countries from the North Sea. The Upper Rhine sits along Germany's borders with Switzerland and the French Alsace. The Middle Rhine showcases castles, forests and vineyards and The Netherlands, and because of its beautiful landscape and numerous castles and fortress, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Toward the end, near Koblenz, where the Rhine narrows, there lives a legend of the Lorelei Rock. A beautiful maiden would sit on the rock and sing songs to woo the sailors that passed. And when he gave in, he met his doom on the jagged rocks. A statue sits at the river's edge to remind travelers of that maiden.

However, as we rolled along the river, Program Director Sebastian braved the elements providing the soundtrack for scenery. Although our view land that lined the water was a little less than we had anticipated, we had grown accustomed to winter weather in Europe. We sat in the lounge, nestled in wool blankets, watching the stories drift by, of vineyards perched on cliffs, castles rising from the cities below. On a whim, we've move to the upper deck and walk along the track until the cold and wet got a little too cold and wet.

We have arrived in Rüdesheim, and it's time to eat and drink. Meals are available on the ship at all times, but with Viking, opportunities to be immersed within the city and its people are the true essence of this type of travel and what Viking does so well.

By this time, we've mastered "PROST!" (cheers) perfectly and we're ready for whatever a German brewhouse can deliver. Such wishful thinking!

By bus, a crowd of foodies headed to Rüdesheimer Schloss. Serving authentic German cuisine with beer and wine, the experience was likely the best of our trip. Live music, shot-skis (they never said exactly what was in that cup) and dancing through the night  - even a ladies symphony of cowbells to Edelweiss - proved to be the true cultural experience for which we yearned.

Heidelberg

By morning light, we dock in Mannheim for a morning excursion to Heidelberg, German's oldest university town.

One of the most beautiful and preserved castles along our route is Heidelberg Schloss (castle). Its history extends back to the 1200s when records speak of the castle. Known as a royal house and a military stronghold, it has endured lightning strikes, wars and battles since the 1600s. At the point in history, much was in ruin; people started vying for the castle's rebirth, especially artists and historians who understood the structure's place in history.

Today, it's maroon façade showcases the roots of the city and attracts millions of tourists each year. Don't miss the world's largest wine barrel, built in 1751. It stands seven meters high and holds 58,124 gallons of wine. As beautiful as the castle and the grounds are, it's view of the Rhine River and the city below speak to its romantic ideal.

To follow along the entire journey and to see the landscape, read the entire story HERE.

2025-05-09T20:12:42Z